Total Days: 6 Days | Accommodations: Hotel in Positano and Hotel in Sorrento | Transportation: Walking/hiking, buses and ferries between towns | Traveled: With a girlfriend | Type of Trip: A lot of logistics and travel time are 100% worth the scenic views and carbs | Highlights: Ravello Gardens, dinner at La Tagliata, drinks at Franco’s, boat ride in Capri, views from Path of the Gods, Pompeii
Positano is a good home base when traveling to the Amalfi Coast. It’s more expensive but a central location so you’ll want to book ahead of time! Reservations should be made for most dinners save some room for flexibility: stumbling upon inevitable hidden gems is also part of the experience.
DAY 1
At a glimpse: Exploring Positano
Travel agenda: Welcome to the Amalfi Coast! However you’ve arrived — trains, planes, automobiles — you’re probably in need of some food and R&R. For lunch, get an outdoor table at Ristorante Valle dei Mulini. Their prosciutto melon and burrata “salad” is a fan favorite.
Then walk through town, discovering the little alleys, alcoves and scenic hideaways. Stop at the Church of Santa Maria Assunta to view the glittering dome up close. The markets and open air stores with blooming flowers and lemons overhead will have you canceling your ticket home. Check out the boutique stores selling ceramics and leather goods including a pair of customized sandals.
Aim to be at the Le Sirenuse Hotel by 5:15pm. Franco’s Bar opens at 5:30pm and with it comes a lively bar atmosphere with views for days. If that is full, the pool bar at the hotel is also lovely. After drinks, plan on dinner at Ristorante Max, a unique gallery setting popular among locals.
DAY 2
At a glimpse: Bus ride to Amalfi and afternoon in Ravello
Travel Agenda: Start with breakfast at the adorably chic Casa e Bottega which has A+ omelettes, smoothies and pastries. Then walk 10 minutes to Amalfi Drive and take the local Sita bus 40 minutes to the town of Amalfi. Once there, walk the promenade and explore the main Piazza Duomo. Stop in to the Cathedral of Saint Andrew the Apostle, which holds the crypt of Saint Andrew. Then enjoy a pizza lunch at Donna Stella located at the end of the main street Via Lorenzo D’Amalfi, to the right and up the hidden stairs.
Next, stroll back to the main bus terminal and take the local Amalfi-Ravello-Scala bus to Revello, one of the most picturesque towns overlooking Amalfi. Explore the quaint town and stop at the Duomo di Ravello church, which has a unique mosaic pulpit. Then head across the way to the Moorish Tower, which leads to the entrance of Villa Rufolo. The Villa boasts cloisters, a fortress and terraced gardens with a breathtaking view. If you still have space for photos, walk a leisurely 10 minutes to Villa Cimbrone Gardens known for its cloister, crypt and Terrace of Infinity view. Head back to the main town and enjoy dinner at Da Salvatore, a restaurant that prides itself on all local ingredients.
Tips: If you have an extra day, consider Mamma Agata’s cooking class from 10am-4:30pm. Or take a Lemon Tour among the groves! Keep the time in mind. The Sita buses stop running early: 8pm on the off season and as early at 10pm during the summer months. Tickets have to be bought beforehand at tobacco stores or nearby bars. Cabs are available in the main towns but they are expensive and often charge the equivalent of a round trip fee.
DAY 3
At a glimpse: Beach day and a memorable dinner overlooking Positano
Travel agenda: Gather your hat, sunscreen and bathing suit and walk to the water. Marina Grande is the main Positano beach but for a more intimate experience, walk 10 minutes west to Fornillo Beach. Pay for a lounge chair and enjoy a day in the sun. Once you start to feel hunger pains, walk to the main Positano dock and flag down the small fishing boat with the red fish. This 5 minute shuttle boat ride will take you to Da Adolfo, a restaurant with a small menu featuring local fresh seafood. The’re also an opportunity to swim and hang out at Laurito, their own charming beach.
Alternative: If you’re itching to see another part of the coast, consider heading on a 1.25 hour bus ride to Minori. White sandy beaches surrounded by an authentic town –you won’t find many tourists here! For lunch, walk the quaint streets and buy sandwiches and sweets to have a picnic on the beach. Also consider visiting The Roman Villa, a well-preserved house built in the 1st century that open to the public and free to roam.
After sunbathing, head back to your accommodations and get ready for the evening. Make a reservation ahead of time to La Tagliata. There will be a shuttle that escorts the small dinner crowd to the high village of Montepertuso. The evening includes singing, dancing, unlimited house wine and grandma Luigi’s unbelievable cooking. One of the best meals experiences at a very reasonable price.
DAY 4
At a glimpse: Ferry to Capri, exploring on foot and via boat
Travel agenda: Rise and shine in Positano but jump on the first 30 minute ferry to the island of Capri. First walk the Marina Grande promenade. Most of these shops and restaurants are tourist traps but this is also where you’ll find the boat tour operators. Negotiate a ride around the island in the afternoon. Make sure it includes a full island tour with the Faraglioni rock formations, Green Grotto, option for Blue Grotto and a stop to swim if it’s during the summer months.
Tip: During high season, the waters get very crowded in the early afternoon so early morning or late afternoon is best. Since the earliest ferry will have you on the island around 9am, take a boat right away or explore the island first and then plan on a 3pm boat tour before catching one of the last ferries to the mainland.
Once the boat tour is confirmed, take the Capri Funicular located just minutes from the ferry docks to the Piazzetta Cesare Battisti. Walk, explore and shop in the pristine town.
Head 5 minutes to the south side of the island to Hotel Luna. The Capri Rooftop on top of the hotel is the perfect lounge bar to have a coffee and Caprese Salad (how can you not!) before continuing on.
Once back on the main street, get a 10 minute cab to the Mount Salero chairlift in Anacapri. The one-person chairlift adventure will take you from the town to the summit in only 12 minutes. Once you reach the highest part of the island, you’ll have a panoramic view of Capri, the gulf and Vesuvius on clear days. Pause at the cafe and ruins of Fortino di Bruto. It’s about an hour walk down or opt for the chairlift back.
From there, head back to the ferry docks for your Capri boat tour. Stop at a convenience store to pick up drinks and snacks for the ride, which is usually 2-3 hours. The Blue Grotto portion involves a smaller boat and additional fee. Get ready for beautiful sites and hopefully a refreshing dip in the crystal clear water! Take the ferry back to Positano and walk just 2 minutes to Chez Black for dinner. Though restaurants on any main beach strip are typically avoided, this one is family owned since 1949 and a favorite for Spaghetti Alle Vongole.
DAY 5
At a glimpse: Morning hike near Positano, travel to Sorrento
Travel agenda: Time to get a little exercise after all those carbs. The Path of the Gods, or Il Sentiero degli Dei, is a 4 mile trail that starts with farmland and abandoned stone houses through forests and meadows, and then opens up to reveal dramatic coastal scenery. First take the bus from Amalfi to Bomerano. From that stop, follow the signs to the trailhead. Near the end of the path, rest at Il Chiosco and order a beverage and snack. Though the path ends in Nocella, you can descend down a long staircase to Positano instead of hoping on a bus. Plan to spend at least 4 hours from start to finish.
Most transportation options depart from Naples or Rome so on your way out of Amalfi, stop in Sorrento for 24 hours. Once checked in, the site seeing begins right away. Start at the Vallone dei Mulini site, a unique lush valley with the ruins of an old saw mill. From there, continue down Via Fuorimura to Piazza Tasso, the main square. Stop in the stores for any last minute souvenirs and then walk an additional 5 minutes towards the water to the St. Francis Cloisters, a tranquil and beautiful spot to reflect on your Italian trip.
Now head back to the hotel to rest your feet! For a well-deserved cocktail head to Bellevue Sirene, a beautifully bougie hotel that should not apologize for what it is. An appropriate final dinner location is O Parrucchiano, a family run restaurant/greenhouse that has been open since 1868 and invented cannelloni pasta. Salute to Italy and your last night with after-dinner lemoncello amongst the citrus trees and lemon groves.
DAY 6
At a glimpse: Pompeii day trip
Travel agenda: Get a true Italian breakfast aka espresso and sweets at Pasticceria Bar Romano and then make a beeline for the Circumvesuviana train station which runs from Sorrento to Naples. It will be a 20 minute ride to Pompeii. The entrance to the archaeological site is right across from the station.
Pompeii is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world with houses, buildings and art sealed in time and preserved under layers of ash after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 7.9 A.D. Plan on at least 3 hours to see the highlights including: the Forum main square, House of Menander, the Granary that stored thousands of artifacts, Stabian Baths and the Theatre. Book a tour to really understand the history and sites, though only select an option led by archaeologists and limited to small groups.
Head back to Sorrento to pack. Get a late lunch at the popular Bagni Delfino, a Gargiulo family restaurant in the Old Center of Sorrento offering traditional neapolitan cuisine. From there, end your trip with Antica Gelateria Sorrentina. A proud third generation Italian family makes the gelato with only the finest Italian ingredients: pistachios from Etna, hazelnuts from Piemonte, coffee from Naples and vanilla from Bourbon. A fitting end to your stay on the Amalfi Coast.
