Traveling to Amman, Wadi Rum, Petra, the Dead Sea, Madaba and Jerash with Intrepid Travel
Jordan was bundled with my Egyptian trip so I flew directly from Cairo International Airport. It’s a proud country with some of the most unique scenery in the world. That being said, Jordan has economic problems, a huge population of refugees, a pollution and trash ignorance, and as a tourist it’s difficult to plan ahead or book activities without real websites or online resources. Therefore I’m happy with my decision to travel with a tour group. Below is not my itinerary but it is similar to what I would have planned and, one way or the other, will help you decide if this should be on your list of destinations!
DAY 1
At a glimpse: Amman streets and nightlife
Travel agenda: We touched down and were immediately greeted by an Intrepid rep who was almost too happy to guide us through customs (no visa needed) and help with our bags. It is interesting to note that Jordanians don’t like Egyptians and make it clear that they are nothing like the people they share a (water) border with. “No tips,” he promised!
We were sent to the Art Hotel, in central Jordan. Our meeting with our new leader and group began at 6pm so I walked around for about an hour, getting to the know the lively area and also tried to be productive stopping at an ATM and currency exchange just across the street. The people are friendly and say “Welcome to Jordan” as you peruse the stalls, vendors and everyday activity.
This time we had a full group! 12 people from New Zealand, Australia, England, Canada, the Dominican Republic and Turkey, with various ages and relations. Our hilarious and knowledgeable guide was a good leader throughout the trip. He always had a fantastic one-liner and kept us engaged despite the immense and sometimes exhausting history. He explained the gist of the trip, suggested the kitty tip jar (35 Dinars per person) and gave us our instructions for the next day. We then walked through the streets as a group for about half an hour.
For dinner, I splintered off and went with the Aussie brother and sister duo to the legendary Hashem “restaurant.” It’s far from lush with little direction, no menu or silverware and disposable plastic spreads. This place pumps out the same vegetarian dishes and the best falafels of all time, all for 3 Dinars. After, we saved just enough room in our bellies and stopped at the Habiba Sweets post for Kanafeh, a Middle Eastern cheese pastry soaked in a sweet syrup with cream and a pistachio crust on top. There was a line around the block of locals, so you know it’s good!
DAY 2
At a glimpse: 5 hour drive to Wadi Rum and a 3 hour tour in the desert before getting to camp
Travel agenda: At 8am our bags were packed and we were on the road to the incredible Wadi Rum desert. The total trip was about 5 hours, but included three considerable breaks for snacks, lunch pickup and restrooms. The biggest shock of the day was when our guide announced that we had WiFi on the bus. What! It ended up being a lifesaver as the WiFi at the hotels were not reliable.
We drove through a big valley, once a lake, and passed by volcanic, limestone, granite and sandstone mountains. We saw sheep being herded and camels grazing. When we arrived in Wadi Rum we were transferred to three trucks with covered seats in the back. We stopped first at a basic desert camp that offered shade and a place to eat lunch, and then weaved our way through the mountains to different viewpoints, including a natural mountain bridge and one bigger hike with a rewarding view from “The Martian.” It felt like we were in a postcard, or on a different planet.
By 5pm we had arrived at Bedouin Camp, with about 20 tents and one larger community tent. We explored the area and some of us climbed the mountain overhead to watch the distant sunset. My favorite part was once the sun went down, the wind picked up, the sky turned pink and the sand glowed an even deeper red. The group, as well as a 5-6 others, sat around a fire listening to the local Bedouin tribe’s music, drinking tea and smoking shisha, and even joined in on some of the dancing. Dinner was at 7:30pm in the Bedouin-style meal, slow cooked in the ground. Chicken, potatoes, carrots, rice and different varieties of salad with a dessert plate meant that no one went to bed hungry!
Tip: The tents are a good size with modern beds, sheets, blankets and pillows. There is electricity, although it’s advised to turn it off by 10am so the Chef can use it for breakfast lights in the morning. Priorities! You’re given your suitcase when you get back to camp but you’re advised to pack a day bag for the journey to Wadi Rum and the three hour desert ride.
DAY 3
At a glimpse: Life in the desert
Travel agenda: After breakfast that started at 7am and consisted of sauces or dips to add to pita bread, 10 of us set out on our desert trek. We walked about seven miles looping around sandstone mountains to the White Desert, stopping for water breaks and to say hello to the roaming camels. We climbed a larger mountain that was easy but still heavy breathing inducing, for views of the whole area. After, we were surprisingly rewarded with tea and biscuits…in the middle of the desert! Then we looped around to head back, and may or may not have accepted a ride from our tea-carrying truck half way through. We got back just in time for a vegetarian lunch with some veggies, rice, beans and pita bread, and non-alcoholic beers.
We had a few hours of free time, and we all systemically took spots along the community tent, finding shady spots, battling flies and reading books or napping. At 5:30pm we clambered into trucks and headed to one of the mountains for a higher sunset vantage point. The clouds had an ever better effect this night and the whole sky erupted in color.
We got back just in time for the fire pit tea ritual. We were joined by some solo newcomers and our group warmly welcomed them into camp to hear all about their journeys. Dinner was served with a main course of lamb, rice and beans. Post-meal, we gathered for an astronomy lesson under the stars.
DAY 4
At a glimpse: Two hour drive to the town of Petra and five hours of exploring the ancient Petra
Travel agenda: After breakfast, we said goodbye to our new friends and headed two hours to the town of Petra. We arrived about 11am and stopped for waters, snacks and schwarma wraps before heading to the Seven Wonders Hotel. We dropped our bags off and I organized a much-needed laundry pile, which was SO expensive, but it just had to be done. Now we were fed, hydrated and ready to see what this “New Wonder” was all about.
With 5 hours on the clock before we got picked up, our guide bought our tickets and showed us the way to the true entrance of Petra, the Siq. We stopped at the Treasury, walked the tombs, admired the ceilings and called it a day, because all of that took up to 5 hours! The Indiana Jones music played in my head as I explored. We were all starving after this so dinner was at Al Arabi, known now as the spot where we first experienced the popular love-or-hate Lemon Mint concoctions.
Tip: Intrepid believes in responsible tourism and does not recommend the horses or donkeys because many are treated cruelly. It’s also best not to buy any souvenirs from children because they should be in school. I had also inquired about Petra at Night, the candlelit walk to the treasury, but was sadly advised by my guide and other travelers that I bumped into, that the experience had recently become overcrowded, loud and clamorous. Not what you see in the photos!
DAY 5
At a glimpse: A full day at Petra
Travel agenda: The alarm went off at 5:30am, and after the 5 initial seconds of “why can’t we do this later?” we were up and the group met our unlucky driver at 6am. When we arrived there were about 50 others, all on a mission to see and experience Petra without the crowds. We walked in silence as a group through the still-dark Siq, but then splintered off into smaller groups. Mine hiked up through the Treasury overlook to the right of the facade to get a higher vantage point and some classic photos.
It started to rain, and as none of us were prepared for the weather, we shrugged and continued on our way to the Monastery. We saw only a half a dozen people as we hiked our way to the farthest Petra landmark and finally arrived at 8am. Being one of the first, it was a great opportunity to take photos without the hoards of people in front of the facade. There are several additional view points from there that all claim to be the “best in the world.” It’s definitely worth exploring and actually a little humorous to see the shops set up along the cliffs! My favorite photo was just one flight up from the main cafe, looking down upon the monastery.
On the way back down, I stopped at the Grand Temple and spent some time at a cafe eating a second breakfast with some coffee. Once I regained my energy I made my way to the Temple of Sacrifice, a shorter distance than the Monastery, but also steeper. At the top, there’s a view of the city of Petra, but overall I wasn’t impressed. Looking back, I would have done the longer Treasury viewpoint instead of the Temple of Sacrifice. 13 miles later, I made it to the brand new museum at the entrance, worth stopping in to. It was time for a real beer, and at 3pm, the whole crew met at the Cave Bar, allegedly the oldest bar in the world, for some well deserved (alcoholic!) beverages.
Tip: Haggling is expected at Petra vendor stalls. Most will start at a staggering price. I bought a 6.5 million year old snail fossil that started at 45 Dinars, and by the time I walked away we were down to just 5 Dinars. There is WiFi in sections of Petra so it’s easier to connect with members of your group if you split up to see the sights. Also don’t let anyone tell you that you need a guide. You can do every trail on your own and there’s no need to pay extra.
We had some time to rest back at the hotel and then met for a group meeting at 6:30pm. We were given instructions for the following day and then half of us went to My Mom’s Recipe for dinner.
DAY 6
At a glimpse: A drive and quick tour around Kerak Castle and an afternoon at the Dead Sea
Travel agenda: No sleeping in on this trip! After a modest hotel breakfast we were on the road at 8am. Our first stop was Kerak Castle, best known as the site of the Crusaders and the army of Saladin. It’s typical Crusader architecture, with Romanesque-style stone vaults and a maze of dark passages, corridors and towers.
Around 1pm, we made it to the lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea. Scattered with resorts and beaches along a couple mile stretch, we went to a basic facility called Amman Beach. Though it was nothing fancy, there was a pool, place to buy towels and snacks, tubs of mud and a small beach that led to a 30% saltier-than-the-ocean Dead Sea. Per instructions, we stayed in the water less than 45 minutes to prevent irritation to our “innocent” skin. We cautiously made our way in, learning to float, bob, and spin in the water. The best part was watching newcomers experience the water, with reactions ranging from shock to pure happiness.
After half an hour, a group of us spent 3JOD to cover ourselves in the gooey thick mud rich with nutrients, taking turns slathering each others backs. Everything but the face was fair game! We let the mud dry for about 5 minutes, took some silly photos and then a float to rinse off. My skin was very happy after, though any of my cuts and wounds from hiking stung. Just remember they will heal 2x as fast!
Tip: Though others will put the mud on their face, it’s specifically made for the body. Avoid water and mud around the eyes, ears and mouth as it will seriously burn. Wear a dark colored bathing suit, as several people were disgruntled with the dark stains post-swim. There’s also no need to lather on the sunscreen as the uv rays are filtered by the time it reaches the lowest place on earth!
We drove to Madaba from there, got to the Marien Hotel just after 5pm and agreed to meet for 7pm dinner. We walked through town as a group and had a meal at local spot, Eyola. On the way back we picked up some baklava, knafeh and halva, did our best to shape into a cake, and candles so we could celebrate two birthdays in the group. We were a weird bunch, but at that time, we were a happenstance family.
Tip: Jordanians love their desserts and you can find pastries and treats on every corner.
DAY 7
At a glimpse: A morning excursion to Jerash, a stop at Mount Nebo and a stroll around Madaba
Travel agenda: Today our hotel breakfast included pancakes and eggs and we were all stunned. By 9am we were happily heading north to Jerash, the “Pompeii of the East.” The Roman ruins are remarkably preserved in many areas, with highlights being Hadrian’s Arch, the oval shaped Forum, the Temple of Artemis, the Nymphaneum and the South Theatre. Our leader guided us through, sharing the history and then giving us an extra 45 minutes to explore. We were back in the van at 1pm and we were dropped off at a small plaza with options for lunch.
Our next stop was Mount Nebo, where Moses saw the promised land just before his death. Though nobody knows quite where he died, the site is marked by a small chapel, olive trees and mosaics. We drove the 15 minutes back to Madaba and were dropped off at St. George’s Church, home of the oldest mosaic map. Not worth a detour, but if you’re in the area may as well drop by for 1JOD Some of the group wandered the nearby markets, picking up small mosaic pieces, ornaments from the Holy Land and mud from the Dead Sea.
We walked back to our hotel with just enough time for a shower, nap or beer at the hotel bar. At 6:30pm we met for our final dinner at Bawabit Madaba, a 10 minute walk down the street. We all chose grilled meat or fish fillet with the fixings. We passed around contact info, traded stories and eagerly whispered about our next travel plans. I said goodbye to our fearless leader and patient tour guide, gave him the suggested tip before figuring out my plan for the following day.
DAY 8
At a glimpse: A spur of the moment trip to the Ma’in Hot Springs and a very long airport saga
Travel agenda: I had booked a late (or very early) flight (2:10am) because I had planned to go canyoning in the Siq trail at Wadi Mujib, the one must-do activity that was not on our Intrepid itinerary. However due to rainfall and potential rockslides, my adventure was canceled the night before. Instead, I decided to join one of my group members to the Ma’in Hot Springs, just south of Madaba. We booked a round trip taxi ride for a total of a 3 hour activity.
This so called “spa experience” was less spa and more experience. Basically it’s an area near the Dead Sea with trees, a river, waterfalls and natural springs. There are nice hotels with their own private springs, but when you buy a ticket for the Ma’in Spring you get access to one large waterfall and the springs below it. We had expected our taxi driver to drop us off, but to our surprise he showed us the way, and then stripped down to his swimsuit and joined us in the waterfall, pushing us in and showing us where to sit or stand.
The water is hot, and the falls acted as a natural massage, as we learned by watching the dozens of local men sprawled out on the rocks in their underwear. We were the outsiders, interrupting their local wellness retreat and I couldn’t help but laugh about it all. If you happen by it on your way to the Dead Sea, it may be worth a stop, but don’t go out of your way for it. But if the Siq Trail is open in Wadi Mujib, don’t hesitate to book it!
The water pressure was strong and my hair, skin and clothing were not ready to spend 36 hours wandering Jordan without a proper shower (the one in the Ma’in locker room definitely does not count) so I went back to Madaba. I got lunch at a spot in town and then took taxi to the airport, 12 hours early.
Learn from my mistake: I naively thought I could book an earlier flight to Istanbul since seats were available in other flights according to the Turkish Airlines website. Despite not having any luck over the phone or online, I figured I would speak with a Turkish Airlines rep at the airport. Turns out there is no airline rep unless your flight is within the 2 hour window. Literally it was like Turkish Airlines didn’t exist until 12:10am. I couldn’t find a single person to help me, was redirected a dozen times and since you need a boarding ticket to go through passport control and therefore access the main airport section, I was limited to the check in counters, 2 small cafes and thankfully a bookstore. I made the airport my temporary home, but I would avoid spending any extra time there if possible.
Click here for more lessons learned during this trip. Or if you’ve decided to book a trip to Jordan, check out my packing guide!
