Eight Days Exploring Cairo, Aswan and Luxor with Intrepid Travel in October 2019
If you’re on the edge of booking an Egyptian trip or a Cairo-based tour, allow me to push you one way or other! Below is my very thorough take and experience on the Discover Egypt & Jordan Intrepid tour. I wouldn’t have enjoyed my time in Egypt without guidance and I would highly recommend a tour for ease of travel and comfort. Click here for the pros and cons!
DAY 0
At a glimpse: Getting to Cairo!
Travel agenda: My journey began when I flew Turkish Airlines from Boston to Cairo with a layover in Instabul. Turkish Airlines was a dream! Comfy seats, plenty of entertainment and good-for-plane food. I have to give them extra points for the food menu and little pouch with socks, slippers, ear plugs, eye mask, toothbrush and toothpaste, and chapstick, usually reserved for first class passengers.
Two movies and a few hours of sleep later, I arrived at the brand new Istanbul Airport which was beautiful, clean and way too big. The airport doesn’t announce the gate numbers until 2 hours before so I recommend walking to the central area where you can peruse the stores, have a coffee and hunt down one of the wifi stations (one hour free). That way you also don’t run the risk of having to high tail it from one end of the airport to the other, which is said to take close to 45 minutes.
The flight from Istanbul to Cairo was easy, with just enough time to watch a movie and eat another meal. After having read horror stories about the difficulties of getting through the Cairo International Airport, I was nervous and prepared for the worst. Here’s how to navigate it:
After getting off the plane, walk to the Baggage Claim and Exit signs. There you’ll start to see lines. Unless you’ve bought your visa online, you need to look for a window with a small sign that reads Visa Stamp. If you have $25 US Dollars in cash it’s much quicker! Once you have this, you can get into any line where it says “Wait behind line. Get travel documents ready.” When your turn is called, show your passport, visa paper and the arrival form that you likely got on the plane. Don’t put your passport away because then you show your passport stamp just another 10 yards away.
Then you arrive at baggage claim. Once you have your bags, queue in the “Nothing to Declare Line.” During this time, I was offered taxis. Though my haggling skills were rusty I tried to be stick to 200 Egyptian pounds but the lowest I found was 250EGP. Done! I also found that the cab drivers are happy to take US dollars. The ride was about 50 minutes with some traffic. This was my first dose of driving in Cairo, where there are very few lights and the only rule seems to be beeping to let the nearest car know that you’re passing. Blinkers and traffic lines are so overrated!
DAY 1
At a glimpse: A morning of mosques and religious history, and an evening at the bazaar with my new tour group
Travel agenda: I booked an Islamic Cairo in Depth tour with Urban Adventures (same company as Intrepid) before I was going to meet up with my Intrepid group later in the day. I ended up having a private tour with a nice and knowledgeable guide who also served as my bodyguard for all the children who wanted a photo with “the blonde.” Within three hours, I had a greater sense of the city and just a little dose of three major religions.
The highlights of the tour were the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, an imposing structure built on a hill with a citadel and the Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, a small 4th century church in the Coptic Cairo section with a crypt that Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus spent three months in during their exodus in Egypt.
At 4pm we had our Intrepid introduction meeting and I met the other members of the group: an Australian guy and a New Zealand couple. Just four of us! I had anticipated a larger group, but having a smaller crew definitely has its advantages as well.
Our guide gave introductions and an overview of the tour and how things work. Basically there are a several optional activities and some that he highly recommends. We would need to confirm with him beforehand so he can arrange transportation. He said he would always give us the agenda and logistical information the night before it happens. Then he offered some wisdom: wear whatever you want! Guidebooks and other people will tell you how to dress one way, but you’re allowed to wear whatever makes you comfortable. He finished his rundown with “Are you ready for an adventure?”
That night we went to the Khan Al-Khalili Bazaar. Our tour guide warned us about the lack of authentic products and souvenirs here so instead we walked briskly through several narrow streets taking as much in as we could within a three second window (more than that and the vendor would pester you to buy!) We had dinner in the market at the Cairo Pancake, with Egypt’s version of pizza, which was fine but nothing I’d recommend. And then went back to the hotel to rest up.
DAY 2
At a glimpse: First introduction of ancient Egypt at the Pyramids, Sphinx and the Cairo Museum
Travel agenda: Today is the day! We agreed as a group to be out of the hotel by 7:30am so that we would be at the pyramids shortly after they opened. Before we left the hotel, we put all of our bags in one room, which we had access to later in the day.
On the ride to the pyramids, our guide shared the basics: the pyramids were tombs built for the Pharaohs who believed it was the fastest way to the afterlife. Although there were hundreds of pyramids in Egypt, the pyramids of Giza are the most celebrated. The pyramids have an underground systems of intricate passageways, shafts and chambers, as well as fake routes to deter thieves. The pharaoh’s burial chamber was always filled with treasure and every-day objects for his spirit, so the “ka” could prosper in the afterlife. Unbeknownst to the Pharaoh, the pyramids were not exactly subtle treasure troves, and most were raided within the centuries after. Though we still don’t know how they were built, there are theories that continue to float around but I personally like the mystery of it!
And there we were! The pyramids themselves are dramatic, but it was the enormous cut stones that impressed me the most. We walked past the initial crowds to the other sides of the pyramids to gawk, take photos, and even scramble up the first few levels of stone. From there, our car remarkably picked us right on up and took us to a second location with a view of all the pyramids. This is where we were introduced to our camels and taken for a short 20-minute stroll in the Sahara desert. My camel, Charlie Brown, was well behaved and I enjoyed every minute of it.
After the camel excursion, we drove to the third site: the Sphinx, with the body structure of a lion and the head of a pharaoh. The purpose of the Sphinx was to guard the pyramid of Khafre. The Sphinx area is also where the mummification process went down. The mummified bodies and organs would then be brought along the causeway road to the pyramids and their final resting place.
It was about noon time when we boarded the van and drove to a nearby Shawarma and Falafel stand. The shawarma wrap was one of the most delicious $2 meals I’ve ever had. Moving on, we made our way to the Cairo Museum, the oldest museum in the world. With statues and artifacts in every corner, it was clear that they had more items than they knew what to do with! The New Egyptian Museum opens up in 2020, but with such an excess of treasures they are keeping both. Our guide took us through the highlights for about an hour. Most shocking was his way of leaning against these ancient sculptures or running his hand along the hieroglyphics. Not in America anymore! We had half an hour of free time to continue exploring and touching the art – because where else can you actually feel a 4,000BC hand carved object?
Tip: For day excursions, the car will likely stay with you the whole day so you can bring extra layers or leave anything you want in the car. For example, leave professional cameras or go-pros in the car when you arrive at the museum. Fortunately, the photo ban was lifted in September 2019 and taking photos with your phone is acceptable!
We were back at the hotel by 2pm, leaving us with a few hours to explore, upload photos and get ready. I was feeling more confident at this point so I ventured a few blocks to the Nile to find a beverage. The Nile restaurants didn’t open until 4pm so I was out of luck, but did find a great little coffee shop. Though no one said anything, I did receive a lot of attention: pointing, staring and gossiping. But my favorite accomplishment was crossing multiple streets and living to tell the tale. It’s a real-life version of Frogger, jumping from one medium to another as cars whiz by without any reason to stop. I learned it was also helpful to wait for a local and cross with them.
That night we hopped in a car to the supermarket and the liquor store. I got mixed nuts, chocolate cookies and a bottle of wine, all of which cost me about $33, a fortune compared to all the other meals. From there we made our way to the train station. Though we waited over an hour, watching the locals find room on already overflowing trains was very entertaining.
Our train was more organized, with specific sleeping cabins and two beds per cabin. As I was traveling solo, I was paired with another woman from Canada. We compared trip notes and discovered we were pretty much on the same tour throughout Egypt. I’m not a sound sleeper, so even with earbuds, a sleeping mask and sleeping pill I didn’t get more than 2 hours of sleep. It’s a noisy ride and very bumpy. One of my favorite moments was discovering we had no bottle opener or cups. Fast forward an hour and my roommate and I had secured a bottle opener and were drinking wine from water bottles after having given a male Egyptian train attendant 5EGP and a few sips for his trouble (he actually asked!)
Tip: There is a ladder which we discovered after my roommate had already mountain climbed to the top bunk. There’s no internet and we didn’t get power in our cabin either so have a portable charger handy just in case. Your suitcase will stay inside the cabin but there’s very little room to spread out so packing a day bag is advised. There’s a smoking car in the back, but otherwise people hang out in the cabins.
DAY 3
At a glimpse: Overnight train to Aswan with a focus on the Philae temple and night in the Nubian village on Elephantine Island
Travel agenda: We woke up to a quick pounding on the door from our favorite male train attendant who asked if we would like breakfast. We said yes and got ourselves ready the best we could in the confined space. Breakfast consisted of three! types of bread, along with an option for coffee or tea. At 9:30am we arrived at the Aswan stop and jumped in a car with our luggage. Since our hotel rooms wouldn’t be ready for a few hours, we went straight to the Philae Temple, which was an itinerary suggestion and cost an additional 70EGP.
The Philae Temple is located on an island on the Aswan Low Dam. The three stars of this complex are the gods Isis, Osiris and Horus, all present in statue, carving and hieroglyphic form. At this point we also started recognizing hieroglyphics, which I think makes us fluent in the Ancient Egyptian language? It was HOT here but there was a breeze from the water. Our guide gave us a half an hour tour and then time to wander. From here, we took a shuttle boat with our luggage to our hotel, Pyramisa Isis Island Resort, a beautiful hotel with a gigantic pool. A welcome gift from the pharaohs after a night on the train! We chose to take a dip and nap there for the afternoon.
At 5pm we boarded a motor boat and took a half an hour ride along the Nile to Elephantine Island. Here we wandered the streets, which were actually a maze of narrow alleyways with colorful murals, goats and cats, and kids playing. We ate dinner at an Intrepid-approved home. We were there about an hour and learned the Nubian way, including home life, customs and marriage ceremonies. The language barrier made it a bit awkward at times, but the food, which was prepared family style, was seriously delicious and we all appreciated it. We were back at the hotel by 8pm which is sensible since we had a 3:30am wake up call!
DAY 4
At a glimpse: Early day trip via bus to Abu Simbel and tea at the Old Cataract Hotel
Travel agenda: Our group had decided early on that we weren’t going to miss out on Abu Simbel, the most expensive and time-consuming optional activity. Also 100% worth it.
Right on time, I got the early AM hotel call and our group was in the van by 4:15am. We were given breakfast takeaway bags (bread but with some yogurt and fruit! hallelujah!) and we tried to sleep on the way. The road through the desert doesn’t open until 5am so we waited in line with all the other tourist buses. We stopped at various checkpoints and once for a break to use the toilets. This is the first time we really got the full impression of the vastness of the desert.
When we were getting close, our guide gave us the history of Abu Simbel, a site with twin temples carved out of the mountainside in the 13th century BC to commemorate the reign of the Pharaoh Ramesses II and his queen Nefertari. The most interesting phenomenon occurs in the sanctuary at the far end of the Ramesses temple, when the sun reaches the pharaoh twice a year: on his birthday and coronation day. It’s one of the first cases of architecture and astronomy working together.
And just like that, we were standing in front of it. We were shown photos and explanations of what we would see in the temples, as guides are not permitted inside. We started with the smaller of the two and had the place to ourselves. The colors and carvings were well-preserved and the “key of life” in the door was a nice touch. Just feet away is Ramesses temple, located along the water and very close to the Sedan border. Ramesses temple was impressive with little caves throughout lit from ground lighting, making the experience extra eerie. We got a good look at the outside once the crowds had moved in.
Tip: Don’t miss the monkeys at the top and fallen head with prominent ear. You’ll also find graffiti from the 1800s. The second largest man-made lake separates Abu Simbel from Sudan, and it’s also a good spot to look for crocodiles.
On the way back we stopped at the Cotton Bazaar. This is the place for scarves, shirts or traditional garb called Gallibaya. The selection is good quality and just a bit more than you would find in the markets. Then we made our back to the hotel via bus and boat.
We decided as a group we would like to go to afternoon tea at the Old Cataract Hotel, a 19th-century Victorian palace transformed to a 5-star hotel on the Nile. Famous for being the site where Agatha Christie wrote “Death on the Nile” I got a kick out of all the life happening around the Nile. The tea service included a variety of mini sandwiches, scones and desserts, but it was the vibe on the porch that made the evening. Though we didn’t really need it, we had a traditional Nubian dinner across the way at Al Dokka.
DAY 5
At a glimpse: Sailing on the Nile via felucca!
Travel agenda: Our felucca trip started at 9:30am. We brought our full suitcases but were instructed to pack a smaller bag for easy access throughout the day. Then we surveyed our home for the next 24 hours and claimed our territory. Since there were just four of us, we had plenty of space!
We cruised the Nile, and spent time looking around, chatting and then played a few rousing games of Uno. We ate lunch just after noon, consisting of pita bread, baba ghonoush, hummus, mashed potatoes and shashuka. Then we were taken to a bank, or as close as possible, since the wind and water were changing, and got the green light from our felucca crew to jump in. The current is strong but we swam along with the boat. The water was refreshing and definitely worth the exercise. Or just the chance to say “I went swimming in the Nile.”
Just before sunset, we stopped at a sandy inlet, where cows grazed and dogs wandered. We made friends with another Intrepid crew on their own felucca and toasted with our previously bought beverages. We were served dinner under the lights of makeshift candles, which included soup, rice, and starchy veggies and passed out early to the sound of locals playing drums.
Tip: There are no towels and only thick course blankets offered. You are at the mercy of the sun and moonlight if you are lucky. Plan on bringing a flashlight for reading materials or games. Earplugs are also advised!
DAY 6
At a glimpse: Early bus ride to Luxor, with time at Karnak Temple and exploring the stores and streets of the city
Travel agenda: We awoke at 6am to the sound of donkeys and breakfast being made. The sun was just starting it’s ascent, as the haze still hung to the ground and the water was perfectly still. It was magical! Our breakfast consisted of crepes, jam and cheese, boiled eggs, bananas and a freshly made glass of mango juice made right in front of my eyes. It was my favorite breakfast of the trip.
We were supposed to make it all the way to Luxor, but due to lack of wind, our crew brought us to a dock and we made the 3 hour drive through local towns, observing the way of life and sleeping on and off.
Just before the main city center, we stopped at the ACE animal shelter, which Intrepid donates to. A woman gave us a tour and we learned the food, cleaning and operations are free for horses, donkeys, cows, cats, dogs and even some turtles, who had an amazing little sanctuary to themselves. We drove to the Emilio Hotel right in the heart of the Luxor, and had time to grab a shawarma sandwich for lunch, shower and regroup.
At 3:30pm we were on the way to the Karnak temple, a sacred site with the contributions of over thirty pharaohs, making it a huge and diverse area with grand columns, statues and obelisks. A classic example of each pharaoh trying to outdo the next.
After, we stopped by a Papyrus store with a brief description of the plant and a demonstration of the paper process which was fascinating. We had some time to peruse the store after, and my tour mates bought small papyrus pieces with brilliant blue scarab beetles and written customized cartouches.
I had expressed interest in a cartouche necklace so our guide took us to Moses’ Jewelry Shop next, where the owner showed the gold assurance certification so I knew I would be getting true 18k gold and at a fair price. First, I picked a base and then confirmed the letters of my name. I added a coordinating chain to go with it and the owner said I could pick it up the following day. It cost me just over $400, which fell in line with the range of what I had read was appropriate. Finally, our guide suggested dinner at Nefertiti Hotel rooftop restaurant overlooking the Luxor Temple and the Nile.
DAY 7
At a glimpse: Focus on Valley of the Kings and a short excursion to the Winter Palace before taking an overnight train back to Cairo
Travel agenda: The day began at 7:30am after our breakfast in the hotel. We jumped in our van and made our way to the West Bank, where our first stop was the Valley of the Kings. The West Bank is full of tombs, temples and monuments built among the mountains. The Valley of the Kings is the most impressive, with 68 tombs uncovered (and one that remains buried so keep an eye out!) Though most were raided, the art remains bright and intact.
Tip: Make sure to check the skyline in the morning – we had a great view of the hot air balloons taking off! It’s something I would be interested in next time, though Intrepid doesn’t recommend it for safety reasons.
When we arrived at the entrance, our guide gave us our tickets and asked who wanted to pay for the special tombs: Ceti, Ramesses VI and King Tut. Once the tickets were bought, there’s a shuttle that takes guests to the tombs. When you arrive, one ticket offers admission to three tombs, which are open to visit on a rotating basis. When we were there, our guide recommended Ramesses IV, Ramesses IX and Ramesses III.
The wondrous, Aladdin-worthy caves (minus the treasures) were fun to explore and see first-hand the disparities in carvings, paintings and overall size. I bought the extra ticket for Ramesses VI, which was my favorite. There were no glass barriers, the paintings featured brilliant color and at the end of the tunnel was an elaborate burial chamber. An additional benefit was that it was practically empty, and I paid 10EGP for the guide to take a few photos of me.
I saved King Tut for last, though I had been warned that his tomb was small and unimpressive. Still, we had spent a week learning about him and it was a “full circle” mission. As I handed over my ticket, I descended into the deep, but small tomb and realized I was completely alone, with just a guard at the top of the stairs. It was eerily quiet and I got some quality time with Tut. #nocurseplease
The tombs only take 10-15 minutes each to see, so by 10am we were on our way back. We stopped at a local ceramics store, where the workers haul stones from the quarry and create vases, bowls and Egyptian shaped souvenirs. We were showed first hand how the stones are carved and how to tell the difference between the fakes and the real deal (the weight and temperature!) I decided to buy a few lucky scarab beetles for family and a small alabaster vase that I surprising and successfully returned home in one piece.
For lunch, we were invited into a local’s home. The owner is another Intrepid tour guide but was in Abu Simbel at the time. We feasted on homemade chicken, soup, rice, potatoes and veggies.
We were back at the hotel by 2pm. The rest of the afternoon was free so I hung out at the pool and read. Though it was the warmest part of the day, I made the decision to walk the half mile, 12 minutes according to Google Maps, past the Luxor Temple to the Winter Palace. I arrived sweaty and completely agitated by the aggressive actions and over-the-top catcalling of the local Egyptian men while I walked. I stormed into the palace, through the gardens and straight to the pool bar where I ordered a much needed glass of cold wine. For my take on safety in Egypt click here!
The Winter Palace is known as the location where Howard Carter announced the King Tut discovery and is a nice oasis in a loud and dirty city. Needless to say, I took a cab back! At this point, my group got ready and made our way to the Luxor train station for our second night on the sleeper train. Dinner consisted of soup, rice, veggies and bread. This time I had the room to myself and spread out like an Egyptian queen in the 10×5 space.
DAY 8
At a glimpse: Flying out of Cairo
Travel agenda: We arrived at 6:30am during those awkward early morning hours when there is nothing open and not enough time to explore. We were taken to our first Cairo hotel and given a room to shower and get ready. We said goodbye to our tour guide and at 9:30am a car showed up to whisk us away to the Cairo Airport, where 3 out of 4 of us were heading to Jordan.
Tip: Here’s how it works when you’re flying internationally at the Cairo International Airport:
Upon arrival, you’ll be asked to put your bags through a security belt. No ticket or passport needed. Then you can find the screen with departure information. It will give you a range of desk numbers. Exactly 2 hours prior to the flight, these desks will be open so you can get your boarding ticket and check your luggage. Here you’ll also receive a borders card that you will have to fill out.
From there go to the passport center with your passport, ticket and completed borders card. You’ll have one additional passport check after this so don’t put anything away. Then you’ll hit security. Shoes, belts, hats and keys have to go on the belt. Even if the security machine does not signal, you’ll still be frisked. At this point you can make your way to the gate. They generally begin boarding one hour prior to flight departure and you only need to show your ticket (I guess the 4 prior passport checks was sufficient). There is a chance that operators will perform a bag check before boarding the flight. Wifi is only available in the central duty free area of the airport. Happy travels!
For adventure part II in Jordan, click here!
For lessons learned and tips in Egypt, click here!
Happy to read that about my country.. best wishes to you.