Milford Sound was the highlight of our New Zealand trip. Not only do we recommend the drive there, but an overnight stay was the best decision we made. Here’s everything you need to know!
The drive to Milford Sound is half the fun. From Queenstown, I recommend renting a car so you can stop at will. Though it is often hailed as a remote drive, there are still plenty of cafes and gas stations along the way.
Although it’s only a 4 hour drive, leave Queenstown by 9AM to get the full experience. Plan on stopping for photo ops at: Eglinton Valley, Mirror Lakes, Pop’s View lookout and for closeups with the grazing sheep. For longer breaks, try the Lake Gunn 45 minute hike, Lake Marian 3 hour return hike or the 15 minute Chasm walk with rivers and waterfalls.
There is no service once you hit the Homer Tunnel so be prepared to go off the grid. This was a great chance to (involuntarily) disconnect for 24 hours, relax and embrace the “8th wonder of the world.”
There are several options for booking a day cruise on Milford Sound, but there are only a couple of boats that offer overnight excursions.
We opted for the Milford Wanderer, a beautifully renovated boat with character and modest comfort. Definitely not a five star stay but the cozy cabin, on board activities and neighborly vibe was perfect for one night. The capacity is 36 people so it’s not crowded but also easy to make friends.
Tip: The boat leaves around 4:30PM. Don’t arrive to the port too early, as there’s no town and nothing to do! Have the parking attendant direct you to the overnight parking section. It will be a crowded lot, but 90% of people don’t stay overnight.
It was cold and drizzly when we arrived. Once we set off, we were given the rundown and offered some warm soup. Then for those who wanted (we all did!) we were transferred to a small vessel for a 2 hour walk on a portion of the world-famous Milford Track. Our guide was informative and shared with us the fiord history, trail information and some interesting NZ flora/fauna tidbits.
Tip: The sandflies are relentless in the afternoon! Definitely wear long sleeves and pants and apply bug spray.
Back on board, the sun came out and we were treated to a whole new Milford Sound world. This is also when we were given the opportunity to jump ship. It was still cold and we didn’t bring bathing suits. Unconvinced, I asked one of the crew members if people really jump off the boat. She said “When else will you have the opportunity to swim in the Tasmin Sea?” We jumped in our pjs. The water was freezing but we had no regrets.
At night, the boat anchors at Harrison Cove. Our dinner was a very hearty prime rib, veggies and salad. There is a bar but drinks are not included. Some guests stayed inside and played board games and others bundled up and sat on the viewing deck admiring the sunset and stars. Lights out at 10PM!
At the 6:30AM wake up call, most guests walked upstairs for coffee and a continental breakfast in their pajamas. One glance outside, and we knew to put on our rain gear before heading to the viewing deck. It was dark and stormy which meant beautiful overhanging clouds and hundreds of waterfalls. The captain let us stay inside his protected wheelhouse as we watched the harbor and sea in awe. The crew pointed out seals and were told its not uncommon to spot dolphins as well.
The Wanderer had us back on land and then on the road to Te Anau by 10:00AM. We felt recharged and ready to conquer the rest of our New Zealand road trip. In order to experience the different facets of Milford Sound, embrace the tranquility of nature and make friends with visitors from all over the world, an overnight cruise is a must.
Doubtful Sound is the alternative option. It does not get the fame Milford Sound does because it is less accessible and twice the cost. The advantages are: Doubtful Sound is 3x larger and more secluded with dramatic Fiordland scenery and wildlife. You’re in it to win it if you venture to Doubtful, so don’t stop short of an overnight cruise there!
What to bring:
- Leave your full suitcase in the car or previous hotel, and instead pack a smaller day bag
- Outfit for the following day
- Pajamas
- Warm coat for the viewing deck
- Rain jacket
- Bathing suit
- Bug spray
- Sunscreen
- Camera
- Cash for alcoholic beverages
The Wanderer and other overnight ships include coffee, tea and fruit/snacks throughout the day, plus a full dinner and breakfast. New bedding and towels are provided.
Click here for the full New Zealand South Island Itinerary!
