Total Days: 10 days including travel | Accommodations: Hotels | Traveled with: A friend | Transportation: Buses and car rental | Type of Trip: Emphasis on nature | Highlights: Perito Moreno Glacier and Mountain Hikes
Patagonia is a bucket list destination – the unreal mountains, glaciers, lakes and foliage. Here’s the fine print: it’s not easy to get around. It would be a different story if you could start and end at different airports and the borders were always open and the roads were paved…that’s not the case. If you’ve got limited time, this itinerary covers some of the best areas in Argentina and Chile.
DAY 1
At a glimpse: Exploring Buenos Aires
Travel agenda: As almost all flights to Patagonia include a major-city layover in Chile or Argentina, let’s start there. With El Calafate as the main destination, opt for a flight with a long (24 hours or more) layover in Buenos Aires.
Stay in Recoleta, a beautiful neighborhood central to the main sites and known for its upscale boutiques, art galleries, and beautiful parks. Before it gets busy, visit the Recoleta Cemetery, where many of Argentina’s most famous figures are buried, including Eva Perón. Weave in and out of the stunning tombs that are personalized to each family.
Next, take a leisurely stroll to Florida Street, admiring the Parisian architecture along the way. This is your chance to seek out the “cambio” dealers. Get your cash here for the best rate for the rest of your trip – it’s a safe street and reliable.
For lunch, take a car to La Boca, one of Buenos Aires’ most colorful neighborhoods. Walk along Caminito, a pedestrian street lined with brightly colored buildings and tango dancers. Visit the Museo Quinquela Martín to learn about the neighborhood’s history and art.
After lunch, take a stroll through Palermo Soho, another trendy neighborhood with lots of boutiques, cafes, and street art. Check out the murals in Plaza Serrano and stop by one of the many designer shops.
Then head back to the hotel to get ready for the night. Your final stop should be a tango show! Book a traditional option, in a smaller venue such as El Querandi for the true experience.
Tips: read more about Buenos Aires here!
DAY 2
At a glimpse: Adjusting to Patagonia life
Travel agenda: Head to the airport for a 3 hour fight to El Calafate! From the airport, there’s a shuttle that goes into town, but if you have 2 or more people, it makes sense to get a taxi. 20-minutes later and you’ll be in the adorable, ski-resort(ish) town.
Walk around the lake, stroll the streets and shop in the flea markets: La Aldea de los Gnomos and Paseo de Los Artesanos. Then enjoy dinner at Mako Fuegos y Vinos on the main street.
Tips: read El Calafate: The Patagonia Kick-Off here!
DAY 3
At a glimpse: Full day at the Perito Moreno Glacier
Travel agenda: Book ahead for a mini trek of the Perito Moreno Glacier. This morning, the smaller shuttle will scoop you up from your hotel and take you to the larger bus that holds 50+ people. It’s a 1.5 hour ride to the glacier. Along the way, your guide will share information about Patagonia, the region and the glacier.
Upon arrival, there will be 2 hours to explore the boardwalks along the glacier. There are a few distinct paths with different color codes. If you move relatively quickly, you can easily see all of the viewpoints. There’s also a cafe when some food and beverages.
Then the tour will whisk visitors to the boat – it’s about a 15 minute ride to the “beach” and start of the hike. There’s a small cabin and restrooms to regroup and then a short walk along the forest until you reach the foot of the glacier. Guides will provide crampons and split the groups based on languages.
Then you will have about an hour on the ice, weaving in and out of the crevices and streams. A whisky beverage will be provided at the end with, you guessed it, fresh Patagonia ice.
From there, it’s about a 2 hour journey back to the hotel! For dinner tonight, check out Casimiro Bigua with Argentina classic dishes, and often entertainment.
DAY 4
At a glimpse: Travel to Torres del Pines
Travel agenda: In the morning, pick up a car at the local rental station. It’s a 4 hour drive to Torres del Pines. Stay at one of the few hotels located within the park, so that you don’t have to base yourself in Puerto Natales, another 2 hours south. Rio Serrano is a fabulous option!
Tips: read Patagonia Road Trip here.
Arrive and explore the property grounds. Discuss hiking opportunities with your the on-site activities guide and order a box lunch for the following day. Then indulge in a fantastic (and early) dinner.
DAY 5
At a glimpse: Hiking to Base Torres, a full day adventure and best part of the W trek
Travel agenda: An 8 hour trek, the famous Base Torres trail starts at the Hotel Las Torres and winds through diverse terrains, including forests, rocky slopes, and alpine meadows. Along the way, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, glaciers, and lakes.
The first hour, you will cross the Ascencio River until you reach Monte Almirante Nieto with panoramic views of the valley. Then descend through the Ascencio Valley with midway stop at the Refugio el Chileno.
From this point, gradually continue ascending through the incredible Lenga forest and glacier slopes, finally reaching the last flat sector. To reach the Base Tower, you’ll have to navigate a challenging section known as the “moraine,” a steep and rocky path that requires some scrambling.
After an hour walking, the effort is rewarded with the most famous postcard of the park: The Torres del Paine and its peri-glacial lagoon of spectacular turquoise color; scene that makes Torres del Paine Park worthy of the title “Eighth Wonder of the World.” Enjoy the view and have lunch before the 3.5 hour trek down the mountain.
DAY 6
At a glimpse: A shorter hike and Chilean glacier
Travel agenda: In the morning, seek out the Condor Trail with one of the best viewpoints of Pehoe Lake. Facing a short, but steep hike, be prepared to climb slopes on stony roads and experience the strength of the Patagonia wind.
Start with the trail from Camping Pehoe with flat terrain promised, followed by a wind tunnel. From here you will have a panoramic view of Pehoe Lake with its striking waters and also the Paine Massif. This iis a great spot to view birds such as the condor and eagles.
In the afternoon, head to Mirador Lago Grey to see the huge bergs of ice bobbing in the frigid waters and the sweeping mountainous landscapes of the Cordillera Paine rising out of the background.
For dinner, make a separate excursion to Hotel Lago Grey. Enjoy the best food in Torres Del Pine, with views of Grey Lake and Glacier.
DAY 7
At a glimpse: Travel to El Chalten
Travel agenda: This morning, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and a visit to the spa.
In the afternoon, drive the 4 hours to El Calafate airport. From here, there is a 2-hour bus to El Chalten. Try to get tickets for the top front of the bus for amazing views of the mountains. It’s a small town so when you arrive, your hotel should be within walking distance.
Drop off your bags and go to dinner at cozy La Tapera.
Tip: The day before the Fitz Roy hike, confirm shuttle service to the Electric River Bridge.
DAY 8
At a glimpse: The challenging but rewarding Laguna de Los Tres hike in Fitz Roy
Travel agenda: The shuttle service will pick hikers up around 8am and then it’s a 30 minute drive to Piedra del Fraile. The path to Laguna de Los Tres is accessed via the Electric River Bridge. Continue to follow the signs for Laguna de los Tres. Around the 2 hour mark, you will come across Mirador Glacier Piedras Blancas and an amazing view of a glacier.
An hour later, the next major landmark will be the Poincenot camping ground, a bridge over a stream and then another base camp. This is also where all of the warning signs are. From here, it’s a 1-1.5 hour uphill rock battle to the top. The rocks can be loose so take your time.
Once at the top, make your way down to the lake and walk to the left side to see a waterfall and second lake. Admire the view, have lunch and give your feet a break. Then head back down and start following the signs for El Chalten. This should take about 3 hours.
Once back in town, grab a beer at La Cerveceria Chalten or Fresco Bar, both minutes from the trailhead. Take a nice hot shower, get ready and then have dinner at well-liked Maffia Trattoria.
Tips: read the full Laguna de Los Tres hike here.
DAY 9
At a glimpse: The trek home
Travel agenda: After breakfast, walk back to the bus station for the final leg of the trip. Take the 2-hour bus to the airport in time for an afternoon flight with layover in Buenos Aires.
There are some excellent lounges to hang out in, such as the Star Alliance and The Centurion Lounge! Then home is just a flight away.
DAY 10
Welcome back!
Can you share roughly how much you spent on this trip? Just trying to get an idea of what I can expect to spend for 2 people.