Making the most of Istanbul with transportation, site seeing and activity suggestions
When I have the time and a longer layover is in an option in a new city, I jump on the opportunity! Istanbul was an easy yes, as most city sites are in the same area. It’s an ambitious itinerary but it can be done, so keep that in mind for your own layover.
***On another note, now is not the best time to travel to Turkey. With political unrest it’s best to stick to Istanbul and be aware of recent news.
My itinerary:
In my case, I had a 10 hour layover from 4am-2:30pm. Not ideal but the benefit of this was being one of the early birds at all the sites. From 4am-6am I spent time in the new IST airport, getting a $35 visa, exchanging currency and taking an uncomfortable nap on two chairs. At 6am, I made it to the ground transportation level.
It was almost too easy to stop by the Havaist kiosk located on the ground transportation level and then take the luxury İST-20 bus to Sultanahmet, the historical center, for 18TL or about $3. The coach bus was comfortable and the driver announced the few stops once we got close. At 7:15am, I hopped out at the Galata Bridge for a 7:20am sunrise. Unfortunately the fog closed in on the city for the first few hours of the day. The bridge was still lively with fishermen and people chatting and I meandered around.
From there I walked 25 minutes to the Blue Mosque, savoring the quiet streets, alleyways and shops. Though I received some quizzical looks, I felt safe and comfortable. Along the way I stopped in a little shop for a Turkish Coffee, prepared where the fine coffee grounds float freely in the brew, with a small cup of water to wake me up.
Had the weather been better, I would have ventured to Seven Hills Restaurant for breakfast on their rooftop overlooking the mosques. However, the foggy weather instead prompted a trip to a Samit cart for the traditional sesame crusted bread with cream cheese. It was crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside and a perfect morning snack.
By this time, it was 8:30am and I was ushered in to the Blue Mosque as soon as an employee saw I was solo, and dressed appropriately (as opposed to all the huge tour groups gathered). I had brought a scarf, covered my hair, and then slipped off my shoes. The Blue Mosque is characterized by a central dome and 4 semi-domes surrounding it, an unheard of six minarets, and nearly 20,000 handmade ceramic Iznik tiles that decorate the interior. The Mosque is currently undergoing renovations so the well-known lamps were MIA but the brilliance of the tiles and stained glass were breathtaking.
15 minutes later, my shoes were back on and I hustled over to Hagia Sophia. Lines had already begun for the 9am opening and I would highly recommend getting there as early as possible because the queue was around the block when I walked by at 11am. It’s a “wow” moment as soon as you step into the former cathedral turned mosque and now museum. There was something to look at in every corner and even the higher mosaics that could be accidentally glanced over glistened in gold. I also enjoyed walking up the eerie “am-I-in-the-wrong-place?” ramp to the second gallery floor and getting a higher vantage point and a glimpse into the living quarters.
The next stop was the Topkiaki Palace, built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1487 and used as the administrative and educational center of the Ottoman Empire and the residence of the Sultans for 380 years. With several buildings and larger courtyards, you could spend hours exploring. The Palace is an influencers dream with infinite beautiful backdrops. The highlights to hit if you’re short on time are The Harem, The Library of Ahmed III and the Holy Relic Section, which includes the staff of Moses, St. John the Baptist’s skull and the first ever Koran..what! I also enjoyed the Armory, with 18th century arms, swords, axes and a very bedazzled suit of armor of Mustafa III and the Clocks Collection Room with the world’s rarest mechanical clocks: everything from pocket watches to astronomical clocks.
From there, I walked 15 minutes on Divan Yolu Cd., a road with plenty to do and see, though I only stopped for baklava. I turned right at the Column of Constantine and wandered my way into the Grand Bazaar for half an hour, admiring the chaos of the largest covered market in the world.
To really soak in the experience, vendors will want to chat and likely offer tea. It’s also a good excuse to sit and people watch! Some of the best things to buy as souvenirs are: ceramic bowls, plates, vases and mosaic lamps. If this is a layover at the end of your trip, just have them bubble wrap the pieces and put them in a carry on! For something a bit easier to pack: Turkish towels, spices and Turkish coffee is a safe bet.
After I wound my way out of the maze that is the Bazaar, I took a taxi back to the airport which was the fastest option but cost me a pretty penny. If you have more time you could walk to the Eminönü Transit Bus Station near the Galata Bridge and from there get a 1.5hr bus to the airport. The new airport is huge and you need at least an hour to make it to the gate. I arrived at 1pm, with just enough time to stop at the lounge to stock up on waters and snacks.
IF you have a few hours more, I would recommend adding these as well:
Basilica Cistern – a big underground water reservoir with 336 symmetrical columns, commissioned by Emperor Justinian and built in 532.
Bosophorus Cruise – a boat ride along the 20-mile long strait which joins two continents and the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea. There are several cruise options and even a hop-on, hop-off alternative if you want to explore other areas.
Hamam – a traditional Turkish bath. Try the historical and authentic Cagaloglu Hamami or Cukurcuma Hamami for a slightly more polished feel. Enjoy scrubs, massages and tea post-service!
Spend time at an outdoor cafe with traditional tea and hookah (and more desserts!)
Turkish Airways Free Tours
Turkish Airways also offers six free tours daily called Touristanbul. The schedules are different depending on the day of the week/time, but it includes transportation to and from the sights, meals and a Bosophorous dinner cruise for the evening tour. There’s less flexibility with these tour, but it’s a welcome and hassle-free way to enjoy Istanbul.
